BEEN BUSY WITH ANOTHER PROJECT, BUT TIME TO GET BACK TO THE SEED BIZ

First I want to apologize to the readers for my lack of attentiveness to The Best Grass Seed Blog. Many readers have posted great comments regarding the content and writing. When I started this blog last year, it was an experiment. Well, I can say that I have developed a following and I must continue to inform and educate my readers. Secondly, I want to say thank you for following my blog and checking out BestGrassSeed.com. I haven't eked out a living with the site yet, but with fortitude and persistence I just possibly might. Keep in touch and let me know what you are thinking and what areas you are interested in. I'll do my best to bring you informative and educational stories about turfgrass and pasture grass. I look forward to hearing from you, the reader, some more. Good grazing!

Seeding Small-Acreage Horse Pastures

Productive, well-managed pasture can provide most of the nutritional requirements for horses during the growing season. But horse owners with small acreages generally do not manage their pasture to maintain desirable grass and legume species and maximize forage output. Most small acreage horse pastures are severely over-grazed and under fertilized, leading to loss of the desirable forage species and the pasture being largely bare soil and for weeds.
Before you begin a pasture seeding or reseeding program, there is some very basic information that you need. Good pasture management practices are based upon knowledge of the soil resource available, how plants grow and where growing points are located in different plant species, the soil and climatic requirements of various pasture grasses and legumes, and how plants respond to grazing. Obtaining thick, vigorous new stands is dependent upon proper seeding practices and favorable seedbed and environmental conditions. Proper soil pH, fertility, seedbed preparation, selecting high quality seed of appropriate species and varieties of grasses and legumes, seeding at the right time, good seeding techniques with equipment precisely adjusted for seeding rate and depth, and adequate control of weeds and insects are among the key factors to obtain thick, vigorous stands. Planning for New Seedings Preparations for seeding need to begin as much as 2 years prior to the actual planting of seed, especially for no-till seedings where lime and fertilizer can not be incorporated and mixed into the soil. Most old pastures and existing grasslands needing reseeding will require lime, fertilizer and weed control. These materials should be applied 6 to 24 months prior to seeding.

Do not attempt to reseed the entire pasture acreage at one time. Horses will need to be removed from seeded areas until the plants become adequately established to withstand grazing. Seedings made in late summer will usually be ready for grazing the following May. Seeding made in late winter/early spring will usually be ready for grazing 3 to 4 months later.
Control Existing Perennial Broadleaf Weeds Perennial broadleaf weeds are usually present in older horse pastures, especially those that have been poorly managed, and may be present on cropland to be seeded to hay or pasture. Successful forage establishment of mixed grass and legume stands is dependent upon eliminationof these weeds prior to Seeding Small-Acreage Horse Pastures the time of seeding, either through tillage, herbicide application, or both. For best results, the weed control program should begin 6 months to a year before seeding.
The type of herbicide to be used will depend upon the composition of the existing vegetation and the kind of seeding (tillage vs. no-tillage). Early fall (2 to 4 weeks prior to the average killing frost date) is the most effective time period for application of herbicides to deep-rooted, hard-to-kill perennials such as dandelions, curly dock, milkweed, dogbane and Canada thistle.
Many herbicides must be applied by licensed pesticide applicators. Most commercial application
equipment is designed for large fields and not suitable for use on small acreages. Commercial
applicators also give priority to larger farm operations, so begin making contacts and arrangements for your needs at least 2 to 3 months prior to the target application time.
Liming and Fertilization For tilled seedbed seedings, soil samples should be taken to the depth of the plow layer (the depth to which the soil is plowed, commonly defined as 6 2/3 inches). For no-till seedings, two sets of samples should be taken – one from the 0 to 2-inch depth to determine surface pH and fertility and the other to the normal plow depth. Lime should ideally be applied 6 to 12 months prior to seeding and thoroughly incorporated into the plow layer to neutralize social acidity. With no-till seedings, surface applications should be made 1 to 2 years ahead of seeding to allow for movement into the soil profile. Phosphorus (P) level is especially critical during establishment. It is also commonly a limiting factor on unproductive, poorly managed pastures. A readily available supply of P within reach of the roots of young seedlings is essential for normal root development and seedling establishment. The demand for potassium (K) by young seedlings is relatively low. It is much more important once stands are established and high levels are essential for maintaining productive, long-lived stands.

Matching Plants to Soil and Site Characteristics
Many factors need to be considered when selecting suitable grass and legume species. Not every horse pasture is suitable for orchardgrass and bluegrass. Each species has its own particular characteristics, making it more or less suitable for a particular site and purpose. Many pasture plantings fail or perform poorly simply because the species chosen for planting is not adapted to the site or the area. The first and foremost factors to be taken into account when selecting species is the necessity of matching grasses and legumes to the characteristics of the soil on which they are to be grown and the type of grazing management to be applied. Soil type, drainage, moisture holding capacity, fertility, pH and winter hardiness all have an affect on plant species adaptation. But horse owners, farm supply personnel, farm advisors and consultants often select or recommend species based on personal or industry preferences and biases without considering soil and site characteristics. Only species such as tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass and white clover will withstand the close grazing practices used on most small acreage horse farms and often times they can not even withstand the ever-grazing abuse. A thorough and complete inventory of all available resources that will be utilized in the pasture and grazing program needs to be performed. Among the questions to be addressed in the process of selecting adapted grass and legume species are:What are the soil limitations of each field in the grazing system?
1) Shallow soils are droughty and they will stress plants during hot, dry weather.
2) Is drainage a limiting factor any place on the farm? Species differ in their ability to
persist on poorly drained soils.
3) Are fertility and pH limiting factors? It is important to know not only what the fertility
and pH limitations are, but also to know where they are (which fields). Soil pH and
fertility are correctable limitations but keep in mind that it may take 2 to 3 years or
more for surface applications of lime and fertilizer to effectively change levels in the
root zone.
4) Does topography restrict performing management practices? Steep slopes limit access
and operation of equipment for liming, fertilizing, clipping, etc., a criterion to consider
with species requiring high pH and fertility.
5) What will be the frequency of grazing and length of the rest periods?
6) Is the primary intended purpose of the pasture to supply feed or to be an exercise lot?

Prepackaged ‘shotgun’ mixtures of numerous grasses and legumes usually have no advantage over simpler mixtures of one or two grasses and one or two legumes carefully selected to match specific species to soil and site characteristics and grazing system goals.
Certified seed of known varieties should be used. Certified seed carries a label certifying that it is seed of the particular variety listed on the label and that the seed meets minimum standards of quality in purity and germination and has low weed seed content (usually less than 0.25%).
Seeding New Stands Tilled Seedbed Seedings. Tilled seedbed seedings are sometimes referred to as conventional tillage practices (plowing, discing, harrowing, etc.) are used to prepare the seedbed. The purposes of tillage are to loosen the soil, eliminate existing vegetation, turn under surface weed seeds, incorporate lime and fertilizer into the soil, and provide a smooth surface.
No-till Seedings. No-till seeding reduces soil erosion and conserves soil moisture for germination and seedling growth. No-till technology allows seeding without plowing or disking. Herbicides such as paraquat and glyphosate enable suppression of existing vegetation without tillage. For late summer seedings, it is important that all existing vegetation be eliminated 4-6 weeks prior to seeding. The use of paraquat or glyphosate and the application rate is determined by the type of vegetation present. The applicator hired to do the spraying should be able to help you determine the rate necessary or contact your local county Extension office (Maryland Cooperative Extension listed under county government offices). This application will be followed by an application of paraquat at the time of seeding for control of weeds that germinated after the first application 4 to 6 weeks earlier. When To Seed The primary seeding times for cool-season species are late winter/spring (late February to mid-May, depending upon location) and late summer (August to mid-September). Late winter/spring seedings are not common. Soil moisture and rainfall are generally good, evaporation is less and soil moisture is retained longer during the establishment period than with late summer seedings. However, seeding too early in cold, wet soils can result in poor germination, seedling loss due to fungal diseases and weak
stands. On the other hand late spring seedings often fail due to stress from high temperature and lack of moisture. Also, annual weeds are more of a problem with late spring seedings. Advantages of late summer seedings include less competition from weeds and damping-off (fungal)diseases are not usually a problem. Late summer seedings need sufficient time and heat unit accumulation for adequate growth before killing frost. These seedings should be made early enough to allow at least 6 weeks for growth after germination and emergence (Note: 6 weeks after emergence – not 6 weeks after seeding). Seedlings should be at least 3 to 4 inches tall before killing frost. Seedings made after out-of-dates (September 1 for mountainous region of western Maryland, September 10 for the rest of the state) are more subject to winter injury and possible winter killings since the plants do not have as much time to develop and become established. Seeding Depth Seeding depth varies with soil type (sandy, clay or loam), soil moisture availability, and time of seeding and firmness of the seedbed. Seeds placed too deep are not likely to emerge. Seeds placed on the surface or at a very shallow depth or in loose or cloddy seedbed often do not have adequate seed soil contact. In these cases, dry soil conditions following seeding usually results in desiccation and death of the seedlings. Thus in a firm seedbed is essential for proper seed placement, good seed-soil contact and successful establishment. Seed should be covered with enough soil to provide moist conditions for germination. Under humid
conditions, best results are obtained when placement is between ¼ and ½ inch deep. Under more arid conditions, such as sandy soils or to reach moist soil, the seed must be sown deeper. However, seed placed deeper than 1 inch may not emerge or be so weakened that survival is reduced. Generally, the optimum seeding depths are ¼ to ½ inch on clay and loam soils and ½ to 1 inch on sandy soils. Shallower depths within these ranges are better for species with smaller seed sizes and for early spring seedings. Deeper depths are recommended for species with larger seed sizes and for late spring and summer seedings when moisture conditions are less favorable.
Seeding Rates Pasture seeding rates are higher than hay seeding rates to provide a denser sod for grazing. This is especially true for horse pastures. Table 1 lists seeding rate recommendations for various choices and mixtures based on soil type. Management during Establishment New seedings should not be grazed until the plants have developed sufficient root systems to prevent
uprooting when grazed. One approach is to allow the new plants to grow to 10-12 inches, mow to a height of 3-4 inches, allow to regrow to 10-12 inches again and mow to 3-4 inches a second time. After the second mowing, let the plants again grow to 10-12 inches. By this time the plants should be ready for grazing so allow the horses to graze them down to 3-4 inches. Most forage grasses and legumes regrow from crown buds and are usually not seriously damaged by cutting. However, clipping too frequently can reduce seedling development as well as forage yields the following year. So don’t overdo it. To test for adequate root development, grasp a handful of plant material and tug on it. If you can easily pull it out of the ground, the root system is not sufficiently developed to prevent uprooting by the horses as they graze. If this is the case, another mowing and regrowth cycle is needed. Be sure not to graze the plants lower than 3-4 inches and graze only when the soil surface is dry and firm. Never graze new stands during wet periods, especially on tilled seedbeds. If it is feasible to harvest the spring growth as hay, this is another option for allowing plants to develop a sufficient root system before grazing. The spring growth is allowed to grow to the late boot/early heading stage and then harvested as hay. Once the regrowth following hay harvest is 10-12 inches tall, grazing can begin. Weeds often invade new seedings and the stand may be reduced if they are not controlled. Clipping, in addition to being a good management practice for developing root systems during establishment, will also reduce competition of weeds with the new grass and legume seedlings. But it should not be done
too early. If clipped too early, only the tops of the weeds will be removed, leaving active buds on the stubble to produce new branches and even more competition. Sufficient weed growth should be allowed so that most active buds are removed when the new seeding is clipped. Even though the seedlings from late summer seedings may make considerable growth during the late summer and fall period, they should not be cut or grazed. Clipping or grazing seedling stands weakens the plants and results in greater susceptibility to winter killing. Grazing or clipping of new spring seedings should end 4 to 6 weeks prior to the average killing frost date to allow for buildup of reserves for winter. Avoid grazing of new stands during wet periods, especially on tilled seedbeds. New seedings should be monitored for slugs, insect and disease problems at least weekly for the first 6 to 8 weeks. Pasture producers often fail to monitor new seedings and it is difficult, if not impossible, to determine the cause of seeding failures when you don’t know what happened during that 6- to 8- week period following seeding.

Summary There are no shortcuts or substitutes for good management practices and procedures for establishing pastures. Poor management before and after seeding can result in wasted effort. But once this pasture improvement has been made, there is often a tendency for horse owners to slip back into old practices of overgrazing, inadequate fertilization, and soon the new seedings are back to weeds and low productivity. After seeding it is necessary to follow up with good forage management to realize continuing benefits from a new seedings.

Prepared by: Lester R. Vough, University of Maryland Forage Crops Extension Specialist Emeritus/NRCS Forage Systems Management Consultant.

Pasture Grass: The Healthy Choice

by: Ray Geor, BVSc, PhD, Dipl. ACVIM

March 01 2003 Article # 4188

Few nutritionists will dispute that grass is the most natural feedstuff for horses. The horse's digestive tract is well designed for continuous or "trickle" delivery of pasture forage. As well, it seems intuitive that the opportunity for socialization and exercise provided when horses have access to pasture is important for their health and well-being. If given free access to pasture (all day), horses will spend 60-70% of their time grazing, with considerable walking activity, especially in large fields. Unfortunately, for many horses free access to pasture is but a dream; only a restricted period of grazing, if any, is available to a large proportion of the domesticated horse population.

From a nutritional standpoint, common questions regarding pasture grass and grazing activity include: "What is the benefit of pasture for my horse?" "Can my horse get all the required nutrition from grass alone?" And, related to the previous question, "If my horse is at pasture all day long, do I need to feed him some kind of supplement?"

The answer to all of these questions is...it depends! Several factors have to be taken into consideration, including the age and use of the horse, season, species of pasture grass, pasture management practices, and the time available to the horse for grazing activity. You need some understanding of these factors to best utilize pasture as a part of your horse's nutritional program.

Grazing Behavior

Horses like to graze and, in general, spend time in wide-open spaces. However, to estimate the potential for pasture forages to meet nutritional needs, we need knowledge of the horse's typical grazing behavior. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, there is limited information on the intake of pasture forages by horses. However, from the available data it is clear that extended grazing periods are needed for pasture to meet (or nearly meet) a horse's nutritional requirements. This makes sense when you consider the horse's overall energy needs and the fact that pasture grasses can be 50-80% water.

As mentioned, on average horses graze approximately 70% of the time spent at pasture. So, if a horse has 24-hour access to pasture, he'll spend up to 17 hours engaged in grazing activity. However, a number of factors will influence grazing time--the time devoted to grazing decreases with severe weather (cold or hot), increased pasture forage availability (e.g., lush ryegrass), being alone, and when bothered by flies. In general, grazing time is inversely proportional to the quality and amount of pasture forage, i.e., a horse will spend less time grazing a lush, spring pasture when compared to a dry, mid-to-late summer pasture with lower forage availability.

Interestingly, when horses are kept in stalls and fed hay free choice, they spend a similar amount of time eating. Of course, it is more typical for stalled horses to be fed twice during a 24-hour period--under these circumstances, consumption time represents only about 15% of a 24-hour period. And we sometimes wonder why stalled horses often develop undesirable vices such as wood chewing!

Horses spend about 10% of their time walking when at pasture. However, more time will be spent walking on poorer quality pasture as the horse searches for palatable forage. Similarly, they will walk more if alone, presumably because they are in search of companionship. Only about one to two hours is spent lying down, mostly in the period three to four hours before dawn.

Horses are classified as selective grazers; they do not simply eat forage available in greatest abundance, but seem to base their selection on palatability. So, in a pasture containing several grass species, a patchy grazing pattern can develop as the preferred forages are depleted first. This leads to very inefficient utilization of pasture forage, a situation that can be minimized by proper pasture management, including the practice of rotational grazing.

Benefits of Pasture

The opportunity to graze for extended periods has two very important benefits for the horse. First, forage (or fiber of some type) is a basic necessity for normal functioning of the equine gastrointestinal tract, and a well-managed pasture will be an economical source of high-quality feed. Indeed, as will be discussed shortly, under some circumstances pasture can meet most of your horse's nutritional needs. Second, pasture is a great place for horses to exercise, and this exercise also can be important in maintaining healthy gastrointestinal function.

The amount of voluntary exercise will be proportional to the time at pasture. In one study of Thoroughbred yearlings, Japanese researchers investigated the effects of grazing time on feed intake and energy expenditure, as indicated by the distance covered while at pasture¹. One group of horses was allowed to graze for 17 hours per day, while the other was restricted to seven hours grazing in a 10-acre (four-hectare) pasture. The horses at pasture for 17 hours per day traveled between eight and 9.5 miles (13-15 km), whereas horses restricted to seven hours grazing per day covered 2.5 to three miles (four to five kilometers).

Most of this distance will be covered at the walk. Even so, energy expenditure per day (calories burned) will be considerably higher for a horse given access to pasture when compared to a horse kept in a stall for much of the day. This voluntary exercise also has a conditioning effect. In a recent study, there was a 20-25% increase in the aerobic capacity (VO₂max) of young Thoroughbreds which were otherwise untrained but turned out to pasture for between seven and 20 hours per day.

Now to the important question: How much nutrition can be derived from pasture? First, a few nutritional basics. Mature horses generally consume 2-2.5% of their body weight in feed each day (on a dry matter, DM, basis). For example, a 1,000-pound (454-kg) horse fed hay plus grain concentrate (feeds that are about 90% DM) should consume about 20-25 pounds (9.1-11.3 kg) of feed daily. For gastrointestinal health, horses need to eat about 1% of their body weight in hay or pasture grasses and legumes daily (10 pounds, or 4.5 kg, of DM intake for a 1,000-pound, or 454-kg, horse).

So, how much grass can be eaten per hour of grazing activity? This will vary with pasture forage quantity, quality, and palatability, and also with the amount of time horses are on pasture. However, about 1-1.4 pounds (0.5-0.6 kg) per hour (DM basis) is a reasonable range assuming quantity is not a limiting factor. This means that a horse with 24-hour access to good-quality pasture grazing 17 hours each day can consume up to 25 pounds (11.3 kg) as forage, which is plenty to satisfy his daily DM needs. A minimum of eight to 10 hours at pasture would be needed to achieve a DM intake of at least 1% of body weight. Anything less than this duration of grazing and the horse will need supplemental forage (such as hay) to satisfy his forage needs.

Pasture can be an excellent source of digestible nutrients for the horse, high in both digestible energy and crude protein. "Pasture Grass Nutrient Content" on page 74 shows the nutrient composition of some pasture grasses at two stages of growth--vegetative (spring growth) and mature (mid-to-late summer). This table also relates the nutrients available in these grasses to some of the nutritional needs of different classes of horses. While the data in this table are representative of the nutrient content of these pasture species, many factors (including soil type, annual rainfall patterns, and fertilization) will influence the nutrient values of a given pasture.

In general, forage nutrient content is highest during the spring and fall when there is "flush" growth from increasing ambient temperature (spring) or rainfall (fall). Mature or dormant grass has much lower energy and protein content and overall digestibility when compared to a lush, growing spring pasture. The concentration of some minerals also decreases with plant maturity. Given this seasonal (and, potentially, year-to-year) change in pasture quality, some large breeding farms will regularly analyze the nutrient content of pasture to fine-tune feeding programs.

For the same reason, it is unrealistic for me to make precise recommendations for balancing rations in all situations where pasture is an important component of the diet. Extension specialists and nutritionists in your area are best able to make these recommendations. For the most part, though, it is fair to assume that a dormant winter pasture or dry summer pasture is more useful for exercise and socialization than for delivery of nutrition. However, when growing conditions are good and pasture supply is plentiful (such as in spring and fall), pasture can replace hay and reduce the quantity of concentrates required.

For mature, idle (pasture ornaments), or laid-up horses, or mares in early pregnancy, spring or fall pasture can deliver the most required nutrients providing the horse has adequate time for grazing and there is plenty of land per horse. Only a mineral supplement (supplying calcium and phosphorus) might be necessary in these situations.

For working (athletic) and growing horses and for late pregnant (last trimester) and lactating mares, even the best-quality spring or early summer pasture grazed all day long might not get the job done in terms of exercise performance or growth and development. In most situations, these horses will need some type of concentrate or supplement to meet their nutritional needs, and these needs will be greater when pasture is mature or dormant.

The issue of land space is important. All bets are off at high stocking densities because, regardless of the time available for grazing, pasture supply will be inadequate to meet the horse's needs. Horses with a mature weight of 1,000 to 1,200 pounds need the following amounts of pasture at a minimum: Mare and foal, 1.75 to two acres (0.7-0.8 hectares); yearlings and mature horses, 1.5 to two acres (0.6-0.8 hectares); and weanlings, 0.5 to one acre (0.2-0.4 hectares). If acreage is limited (e.g., less than an acre per horse), exercise will be the main pasture use as only a minimal amount of feed will be supplied.

It also warrants mention that free access to pasture is problematic in overweight horses and ponies, at least those on good-quality pasture. The exercise associated with turnout is important in the weight management of these animals, but this should be done in a dry lot.

Pasture can be an excellent source of feed, exercise, and socialization for most horses if managed properly. Work with your local extension agent to develop the best horse and pasture management plan for your farm.

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REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING

1. Asai. Y.; Matsui, A.; Kawai, M.; et al. Digestible energy expenditure in grazing activity of growing horses. Equine Veterinary Journal, Supplement 30, 490-492, 1999.

Crowell-Davis, S.L.; Houpt, K.A.; Carnevale, J. Feeding and drinking behavior of mares and foals with free access to pasture and water. Journal of Animal Science, 60, 883-889, 1985.

Gallagher, J.R. The potential of pasture to supply the nutritional requirements of grazing horses. Australian Veterinary Journal, 73, 67-78, 1988.

Hoffman, R.M.; Wilson, J.A.; Kronfeld, D.S.; et al. Hydrolyzable carbohydrates in pasture, hay, and horse feeds: direct assay and seasonal variation. Journal of Animal Science 79: 500-506.

Ohmura, H.; Hiraga, A.; Matsui, A.; et al. Physiological responses of young Thoroughbreds during their first year of race training. Equine Veterinary Journal Supplement 34: 140-146, 2002.

Readers are cautioned to seek the advice of a qualified veterinarian before proceeding with any diagnosis, treatment, or therapy

"economic down turn"

The "economic down turn" presents unusual opportunities I have one and have chosen to take it on. I have decided to go out on my own...tough decision to break away from the comfort zone!

As you know the construction industry has 'tanked' and of which I have worked in for over twenty years and never experienced a lay-off with lasting effects until now. I could always find another position with in those days, but not so now. In the Western States construction has slowed tremendously. Prior to the slow down I had a contact with a region turfgrass seed supplier. This supplier has been providing and developing new seed mixes since 1983 and has grown a successful company. I have been authorized to independently market 'Eden® turfgrass seed mix, as an independent rep, and utilizing internet marketing. The product I represent is Eden® Turfgrass Seed. The Seed mix is an high quality fescuse and bluegrass, which brings together the unique characteristics of both types. The mix has the deep rooted element of fescue and the spreading roots of bluegrass. The deep roots provide resistances to drought and a firm hold for durability. The blue grass provides self mending, disease resistance with that beautiful dark green color. Eden® also has slower growth meaning less mowing and less impact on the environment and as well as less impact on water resource during times of drought. There are many seed types and mixes on the market, but I stand behind my product as well as the experience and longevity of the company. I hope, I was able to give you some insight about me, my need to build a network and the remarkable characteristic of my product. Once again thank you for your time and consideration. Visit bestgrassseed.com and pass along your thoughts or to a network member you know that would have interest in Eden®.

JANUARY OR WHAT TO DO DURING WINTER MONTHS

During the winter months, the yard is the last thing on your mind and it show be. By now most the country is blanketed in the white fluffy stuff. With snow covering lawns and gardens there is not much to do. Where I live, in the western mountain states, the snow has a tendency to come and go. Two weeks before Christmas the snow began to fall and continued up until the weekend after Christmas. One day, the day time temperature was up to 58 degrees! For the last week the snow has close to melted off.

When I see the lawn, in its dormant state and in a deep sleep, I get the urge to do what most parents do to their baby--tuck them in! What I am referring to is cleaning up the debris (i.e. leaves and etc). This is a great time to remove debris and give the crown on these sleeping babies a brushing.

Thatching or raking can help aid in the removal of unwanted debris. Act now because before you know it the lawn WILL be covered in white fluffy stuff again, which is a great nurturing action mother nature provides. The Snow melts seeping, penetrating deep in to the soil.

Enjoy the winter months and the time away from lawn maintenance, but for a great looking yard year round attention proves rewarding.