tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49632522925214951492024-03-04T23:46:30.998-08:00The Best Grass SeedRH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-86272566470370534892011-01-27T10:11:00.000-08:002011-01-27T10:11:34.878-08:00Fun Facts about LawnsA surprisingly high percentage (80%) of U.S. households has a private lawn. The potential collective effect on our daily lives is significant. Consumers annually spend around $40 billion per year to maintain and improve their yards, and the growth is accelerating as the U.S. population matures. Lawns, flower gardening, shrub care and general landscaping are important components of local economies. The personal and public benefits are well-documented. <br />
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A healthy and vigorous landscape traps pollution, prevents runoff, improves the air we breathe and can significantly increase property values. Gardening is a healthful activity both physically and emotionally. Contact with nature for the typical urban dweller is often limited to the patch of green that surrounds their home. An estimated 63 million U.S. adults watch wildlife around their home. <br />
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• Improper design, plant selection and maintenance of our lawns and gardens can negatively affect our environment and waste precious water resources. <br />
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• Improperly applied pesticides and fertilizers that end up on impervious surfaces can be washed into a nearby stream with the next rain. <br />
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• Urban areas generate nine times more runoff than a woodland area of the same size. <br />
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• Selecting appropriate plant varieties and proper maintenance of turf areas can greatly reduce water use and off-target movement. <br />
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This fact sheet was developed as a resource for responsible Lawn Care and Landscaping and to provide background information. The referenced list contains statistics and facts concerning the size, expenditures, social benefits and costs of residential lawn care and landscaping. <br />
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Total lawn acreage and average size <br />
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• 27.6 million acres of turf grass in U.S.; 21 million acres in home lawns (Borman, 2001).<br />
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• 80% of all U.S. households have private lawns. (Templeton, 1998). <br />
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• Average American lawn is 1/3 acre (Templeton, 1998).<br />
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• Close to 80% of homes have a lawn and account for 18 million acres (Kline, 1990).<br />
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• 50 million homeowners maintain residential lawns (Lawn Institute, n.d,). <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">Top ten reasons to have a lawn:</div><br />
#10 Gives you some place to put your feet when you walk out the back door.<br />
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#9 Covers up all that brown stuff underneath it.<br />
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#8 Gives you a reason to fire up your lawn mower every week.<br />
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#7 No need to go elsewhere to get grass stains.<br />
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#6 It smells good when you cut it.<br />
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#5 It gives weeds a place to stand out and be recognized.<br />
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#4 What else could you spend your money on that doesn't complain about it not being the right color or size?<br />
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#3 The grass is so much better for your dog to take care of business on than your living room carpet.<br />
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#2 It's the closest your kids will ever get to playing at Wimbledon.<br />
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#1 It just looks pretty.<br />
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(Courtesy of American-lawns.com)RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-48915451601029867612010-12-07T11:55:00.000-08:002010-12-07T11:55:35.897-08:00The History of Lawns in AmericaWe didn't always have a love affair with our lawns. In fact it wasn't until the industrial revolution that lawns became practical for most Americans. Lawns were seen as a luxury expense for only the wealthy who could afford grounds keepers to maintain the fine bladed plants using scythes. Not everyone wanted cattle or sheep grazing in the front yard to keep the green stuff at a manageable height as did Woodrow Wilson while occupying the White House.<br />
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Sheep on the White House lawn? <br />
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Actually, it was an effort to draw attention to what could be done to free up men to fight and help with shortages of wool during World War I. The wool was auctioned off for $100,000 and given to the Red Cross. Speaking of presidents, early Presidents Washington and Jefferson both used sheep to keep their home lawns at manageable heights. <br />
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Green, weed-free lawns so common today didn't exist in America until the late 18th century. Instead, the area just outside the front door of a typical rural home was typically packed dirt or perhaps a cottage garden that contained a mix of flowers, herbs, and vegetables.<br />
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In England, however, many of the wealthy had sweeping green lawns across their estates. Americans with enough money to travel overseas returned to the U.S. with images of the English lawn firmly planted in their imaginations. Try as we might, it wasn't as easy to reproduce a beautiful English lawn. After all, they couldn't just run down to their local hardware store and pick up a bag of grass seed. Grasses native to America proved unsuitable for a tidy and well-controlled lawn, and our extreme climate was less than hospitable to the English grass seeds.<br />
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By 1915, the U.S. Department of Agriculture was collaborating with the U.S. Golf Association to find the right grass—or combination of grasses—that would create a durable, attractive lawn suitable to the variety of climates found in America. Included in the testing were Bermuda grass from Africa, blue grass from Europe, and a mix of Fescues and bent grass. Fifteen years later, the USDA had discovered several grass combinations that would work in our climate. We were off and running, to find the most suitable pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers that would protect and serve newly blended mix of grasses. After all, now that we had a good grass blend, we couldn't let it starve or be eaten alive by some hungry pest, or succumb to some nasty disease.<br />
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The right grass and the right treatments weren't the only problems facing homeowners wanting the perfect lawn, however. There was also the challenge of providing sufficient water to keep the grass green in summer. It wasn't easy hauling a bucket of water out to the yard during the summer droughts. Cutting the grass was a challenge, as well. English lawns were trimmed with scythes, an expensive process that required a certain amount of finesse, or by grazing livestock on the greens.<br />
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Mechanical mowing came about early in the 19th century and there is a general agreement that an Englishman, Edwin Budding, an engineer at a textile mill, developed a cylinder, or reel-type mower. It was a series of blades arranged around a cylinder with a push handle patterned after a machine used in a cloth factory for shearing the nap on velvet. In 1870, Elwood McGuire of Richmond, Indiana designed a machine that basically brought push mowing to the masses. By 1885, America was building 50,000 lawnmowers a year and shipping them to every country on the globe.<br />
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For the average American, the invention of the garden hose and the rotary mower made the lawn a more realistic option. Until then, lawns were just too much bother for most families. When most of the necessary tools and types of grass seeds became readily available, the average homeowner was now able to grow a lawn of their own if they wanted. As of yet, there wasn't a real big demand for green lawns in the front yard. It wasn't until The American Garden Club stepped in. Through contests and other forms of publicity, they convinced home owners that it was their civic duty to maintain a beautiful and healthy lawn. So effective was the club's campaign that lawns were soon the accepted form of landscaping. The garden club further stipulated that the appropriate type of lawn was "a plot with a single type of grass with no intruding weeds, kept mown at a height of an inch and a half, uniformly green, and neatly edged." America thus entered the age of lawn care. <br />
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Today, U.S. homeowners spend over $17 billion on outdoor home improvements. More than 26 million households hired a green professional, according to a 2000 Gallup survey and this number is expected to grow. Your little patch of green has become a big business and for good reason.RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-186315588719137312010-11-02T09:55:00.000-07:002010-11-02T09:56:43.687-07:00Fall Fertilization Builds Strength For A Stronger Greener Spring Lawn<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">“The last application of fertilizer is the most important of the year” states John Steiner, central regional manager of NaturaLawn of America.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fall fertilization is not for the above ground aspect of the lawn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Steiner notes the application is for building up the food reserves so the grass will go into winter strong and “green up faster in the spring.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The stored nutrients will also enable the roots of cool-season grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass, Fescue and bentgrass, to get off to a good start.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One suggestion is to not to use the slow release fertilizers that are recommended in spring and summer applications.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Steiner says “it’s important to use a quick-release fertilizer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At this time of year, the soil is cooler and consequently there’s a lower <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>level of microbial activity in the soil to break down the fertilizer to enable plants to take in the nutrients.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You want to make the nutrients available the grass right away.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is suggested to provide one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet and quick release fertilizers are usually applied at a higher rate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Always follow the manufacturer’s instruction and application rates.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Time the nutrient boost just before the lawn goes dormant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the northwest region that could be as late as mid- to late November.</span></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-18954266054167096322010-10-22T21:01:00.000-07:002010-10-22T21:37:10.665-07:00Time to Aerate...you know punch little holes in the lawn.Lawn aeration is done generally with a machine that basically looks something like a rotary mower. Lawn aerators are run over the surface of the grass, like a lawn mower but instead of cutting the grass the aerator removes small cylinder like pieces of soil and grass. The cylinders generally are referred to as soil plugs. The removed cores can be left on the surface of the lawn and will act as a fertilizer as they decompose.<br /><br />Lawns that are heavily compacted or that contain a thick layer of thatch need to be aerated more frequently than other lawns. For the average lawns, aeration once each year, usually in the fall, is adequate. For heavily compacted or thatched lawns, aeration should probably occur twice a year once in the spring and once in the fall.<br /><br />The benefits of aeration are numerous. Aeration will help eliminate thatch. It will also help combat the effects of soil compaction and improve soil quality in poor soil lawns. Aeration will also help your lawn to establish a good, strong root system. Properly rooted lawns are healthier, stay green with less water and survive the winters better. Aeration also lessens the effects of water run-off during irrigation times, which means you’ll save money and water.<br />Finally, with all those holes from aerating, re-seeding is ideal. The seed is able to fill the voids left by aeration and help thicken or introduce more grass plants to the lawn. For warm climates, those who seed cool season grasses find re-seeding following aeration the idea time. Simple actions produce those desirable lawns that are the envy of the neighborhood.<br /><br /><div align="center">Next Week: Fall Fertilization</div><br /><div align="center"></div><br /><div align="justify"></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-38800623161682986792010-10-14T08:41:00.000-07:002010-10-14T09:23:43.720-07:00FALL IS TIME TO PLANT OR RE-SEED A LAWNCan you believe summer is over? The cooler temperatures are noticeable apparent in the mornings with cooler day time temperatures too. Looking around the landscape which dots the horizon we see leaves taking on the remarkable colors of fall! The beauty of the changing season is here. Like a new snow fall, the first buding leaves, or the warmth of summer the changing seasons brings another milestones of life's renewal.<br /><br /><br /><div align="center"><strong>Autumn Fires</strong></div><div align="center"><strong></strong> </div><div align="center">Robert Louis Stevenson</div><div align="center"><strong></strong> </div><div align="center"><strong>In the other gardens</strong></div><div align="center"><strong>And all up the vale,</strong></div><div align="center"><strong>From the autum bonfires</strong></div><div align="center"><strong>See the smoke trail!</strong></div><div align="center"><strong></strong> </div><div align="center"><strong>Pleasant summer over</strong></div><div align="center"><strong>And all the summer flowers,</strong></div><div align="center"><strong>The red fires blazes,</strong></div><div align="center"><strong>The grey smoke towers.</strong></div><div align="center"><strong></strong> </div><div align="center"><strong>Sing a song of seasons!</strong></div><div align="center"><strong>Something bright in all!</strong></div><div align="center"><strong>Flowers in the summer,</strong></div><div align="center"><span></span><strong>Fires in the Fall!</strong></div><div align="center"><strong></strong> </div><div align="center"><strong></strong> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="center"> </div><div align="center"><br /><br /> <br /></div><div align="center"> </div><div align="left">Fall is a time of preparation. In times past, and for some fortunate people, bring in the harvest meant putting up the labors of summer for subsistence during the winter months. Preparing for next years growing season is what fall is all about. Robert Louis Stevenson's poem <em>Autumn Fires</em> highlights the change of seasons and preparation. Prepare your landscaping and lawn for winter and prepare it for the next year's growing season by re-seeding now. There are may ornamentals planted in the fall for spring and summer blazing glory. According to Rick Seymour, CT says, "where you live throughout much of the northern half of the U.S., early fall is the best time for sowing grass. The soil is warm, but day time temperatures are moderate, making watering less of a problem, and the weeds won't grow." This also give the new grass longer period of time before foot traffic impacts the grass. Begin today to re-seed, plant a new lawn or add ornamentals to your landscape.</div><br /><br /><br /><div align="center"></div><br /><br /><br /><div align="center"></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-72172799886504982762010-05-03T20:24:00.000-07:002010-05-03T20:26:14.488-07:00Old pastures can cost the producer money!Here is a typical "pasture scenario" that I have witnessed time and time again. Farmer Joe has a "pasture" that is more then 10 years old and seems to produce some green forage. It just doesn't seem to holding up to grazing conditions or produce forage for very long. It is critical to note that pastures do decline in their effectiveness over time, and it is a process that can be avoided. So the question continues to come up, "How can we make our pastures better?" followed by the question "Is it worth it?" Yes, but only if you want to make more money. Pasture renovation can be defined as a process to improve species composition and extend the productive life of pastures. The first step in recommending pasture renovations is to take a complete soil sample in order to analyze what you've got to work with. I like to think of good soil test results as my roadmap for the trip I am planning. My father once told me that if you don't care where you're going, it doesn't matter which way you go. On this trip, I want to make sure and optimize my existing pastures, without spending every dime to do it! Without proper soil tests, all we are doing is guessing (at best), and probably not providing the proper fertility requirements for the crop we are about to grow. So, let's live by this motto: "Don't guess, soil test!" Inter-seeding and no-till pasture renovations have doubled and tripled the production of low yielding pastures. While we understand the importance of adding soil amendments to improve forage production, we also should consider introducing new species and varieties to our pasture conditions to improve productivity and quality to our grazing systems. Improved varieties of legumes and grasses like Kopu II, Starfire, Quartet PRg, and Feast II have been University tested to show significant benefits compared to many "old" legumes and grasses. Starfire red clover and Kopu II white clover have been shown to not only offset some of the nitrogen requirements of pasture, but also help improve forage quality, digestibility, and palatability to grazing systems. This means as a producer you save money on your fertilizer bill and your animals will be more productive. Quartet and Feast II ryegrass both are "low aftermath seed heading" varieties. This means that when at maturity instead of continuously trying to produce seed heads (like most other forage grasses) Quartet and Feast II will return to vegetative forage production after one flush of seed heads. What does all of this mean to the producer? Quartet and Feast II will produce high quality forages longer then most other forage grasses resulting in better animal performance. Sometimes existing pasture situations are so poor, the best recommendation is for a complete renovation of the site. This process will include tillage or the use of herbicides to eliminate existing vegetation, adding soil amendments (fertilizer and lime), and reseeding. Complete renovation will also allow for improvements in soil conditioning such as irrigation or soil drainage improvements if needed. An idea that is gaining in popularity is the use of a "break crop" before establishing a totally new pasture. One such type of "break crop" is using an annual such as Perfect FitTM Forage Brassicas. Most producers do not want to have any "down" time between taking out their old pasture and establishing a new one. Perfect FitTM Forage Brassicas offer an excellent forage source, in a relatively quick amount of time. By no-till drilling or by broadcasting on to a lightly disked pasture ground you can establish a productive, high quality forage source in 50-60 days (depending on climatic conditions and fertility kevels). Perfect FitTM Forage Brassicas will allow for the opportunity to "break" the current cycle of available forages, and allow for the reintroduction for improved varieties in the upcoming season. For example, a producer in the Midwest could spray out his old pasture in May. Then no-till Pasja Forage Brassica into it and have a forage source in 40-60 days until mid August. In mid August the producer would once again spray the pasture with a non-selective herbicide. Following a "good kill" the producer would seed the pasture to a Pasture Perfect® seed mixture for a productive permanent pasture. Benefits of renovating pastures include:<br />Greater Return on Investment (yes, pasture land is an investment!)<br />Improved Animal Performance and Productivity<br />Improved Feed Quality<br />Improve Pasture Growth throughout the year to help regulate growth curves<br />Introduction of Improved Pasture Genetics<br />Removal of undesirable traits (weeds, endophyte infected species)<br />Improve soil drainage and aeration<br />As you prepare to renovate pasture conditions, choosing what to reseed is always part of the equation. Check with local seed dealer or university extension agent to determine which Pasture Perfect® seed mixture is right for your particular growing conditions.<br />As a producer, be patient and use good management practices to help new forage seedlings become established. Avoid close grazing of newly emerged seedlings. Maintain fertility levels, and schedule routine rest periods between grazings. Weed control is critical, but beware of broad leaf herbicides when clovers and other broad leaf desirable species are present.<br />Start with a plan, not just an idea, but a written plan. Write it down and refer to it often. Keep good records and take pictures. If you are like me, it's hard to remember how things looked before changes were made, and it's good to look back and see the progress you've made. Remember, like an artist, when you first start renovating your pasture, it is a work in progress! Continue perusing www.pastureperfect.com for more detailed information and remember, a poor pasture may be costing you money!!!<br /><br />By: Jeff Medlin--Ampac Seed CompanyRH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-29776740063549929562010-02-23T04:15:00.000-08:002010-02-23T04:17:13.209-08:00When Putting Your Horse on Lush Grass Go Slowly<div align="center">Introducing Your Horse to Pasture</div><div align="justify"><br />If your horse has been eating very sparse pasture or has been eating hay all winter it will need to be introduced to lush pastures very gradually. An abrupt change in the feed can cause colic, laminitis or founder. Ponies, over weight horses, older horses and some draft breeds or draft crosses seem to be particularly susceptible although any horse can be affected. A pony can founder on rich grass in less than an hour of grazing time. If your horse or pony is grazing a pasture from the time the ground thaws in early spring, he will be introduced to the new growth of grass naturally. Many people keep herds of ponies this way without problem. However, if you make the switch from a hay diet to lush growing grass problems can occur.</div><div align="justify"><br />Allow ponies a few minutes of grazing, gradually building the time spent. You may find that you have to restrict the grazing time of ponies because they gain weight so easily. Obesity can also lead to problems. So leaving your pony out on lush pasture all the time may not be possible. Let your pony graze for very short periods of time and then leave them in an area with very sparse grazing. </div><div align="justify"><br />Introduce your horse gradually as well, starting with a half hour and adding about ten minutes every day until you can leave the horse for a few hours. You can also feed hay before the horse is turned out to prevent him gorging himself because he feels hungry.<br />It’s tempting to turn your horse out in the spring and watch him enjoy that beautiful green grass. But doing so may endanger his health, or be fatal, error on the side of caution when introducing pasture. </div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-59339758051834133252010-01-26T21:10:00.000-08:002010-01-26T21:11:04.502-08:00MANAGING HORSE PASTUREBy Randall Holman<br /><br />A major part of a horse's diet is hay or pasture. A horse weighing 1000 pounds will eat about 500 pounds each month. A horse needs roughly 28 acres of non-irrigated, dryland pasture a year if that is the only source of forage. However, a pasture that is irrigated will grow more forage than dryland pasture, requiring less acreage. The amount of irrigated pasture needed for one horse is roughly 1 to 2 acres.Two acres of pasture for each horse are recommended. One acre of pasture will provide adequate grazing, but requires more pasture management. Manage your pasture as you would with any crop with soil testing, fertilizing, and managing manure. Horses will not eat trampled grass or grass with manure on it. Horses will also overgraze smaller areas very quickly. Therefore, a combination of pasture and small lot or barn is needed to help minimize overgrazing.Do not let horses overgraze the pasture as this can cause grass to no longer grow. Keep pasture grass healthy--overgrazed pasture may never recover. To allow for re-growth, leave about 1/3 of the grass uneaten at any given time. The horse can be confined to the lot or barn and only allowed to graze for a few hours a day, reducing damage to a small pasture. Rotational pasture lots are one key to using small acreage pasture space to the fullest potential. Portable electric fencing provides an efficient and economic way to partition you pasture. Over-supplementing your horse with hay and grain will not prevent your horse from overgrazing.Pasture grazing is not absolutely necessary for a horse. A nice green pasture is not always a reality. Horses can be properly fed without pasture. However, pasture has several advantages as it is the natural feed for horses, reduces the cost of feeding, provides your horse with exercise, and generally speaking, horses are usually healthier when kept outside on pasture. Establishing and maintaining a productive pasture is not too difficult. A few dollars spent on soil nutrients for your pasture is a good investment. Fertilizer will help your pasture to become more productive and produce more forage. Fertilizer costs will generally be offset from good pasture rotating and from savings in feed costs for hay and grain supplements. Mowing is also important of pasture management. It minimizes the spread of weeds to help maintain higher quality forage. Mowing weeds before seed heads are produced limits the spread of weeds. Grass should be mowed to 3-4 inches.No matter how well you manage your pasture, it will most likely thin. To help ensure pasture continues to produce good grass, new forage seed should be spread every year. It is recommended re-seeding be done in the spring or fall. In the spring, wet conditions will allow for germination and growth, but only if it is not too wet or muddy. In the fall, there will be less competition from weeds. Grazing should not be allowed on new grass seedlings for approximately 6 to 8 weeks after emerging from the ground to allow for proper root growth.Caution! Turning your horse out on green lush pasture before conditioning him to a change in diet is dangerous and can result in sickness or possibly death. Start your horse out slowly by letting him graze for few minutes each day and gradually increase to a few hours each day. About the Author Randall Holman, site owner of Front Range Frenzy and horse enthusiast, is the author of this article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website: <a href="http://www.frontrangefrenzy.com/" target="_blank">http://www.FrontRangeFrenzy.com</a>.RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-39476506854941995952010-01-26T20:57:00.000-08:002010-01-26T21:01:35.242-08:00Dryland Forage EstablishmentEstablishing dryland pasture grasses is often tricky. It’s really a matter of timing; getting the seed into the ground at the right depth at the right time to take advantage of spring rain or snowmelt. In the mountain west, dryland grasses can be planted either in the fall or spring. If you choose to plant in the fall, ensure that the temperatures have cooled to below 40 degrees F to prevent seed germination too soon. The idea is to get the seed in before the snow falls, and take advantage of moisture from the spring thaw to hydrate the seeds for germination. If you plan to plant in the spring, it’s best to pick a time after spring thaw and before early summer. Summer in the mountain west often finds dry periods in June and July, depending on your area. If grasses are planted too late they may not have enough moisture to get established. For best results coincide your plantings with spring rains.<br /><br />Dryland grasses can be directly seeded into the soil by seed drilling. This is often the preferred method in the spring as tillage quickly depletes soil moisture and organic matter. Fall tillage and planting would be appropriate if winter snow supplies moisture for soil hydration and seed germination in the spring.RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-41584282186557191422010-01-12T21:35:00.000-08:002010-01-12T21:48:52.939-08:00The 'Best' of Grass!<div align="center"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><strong>Featured this week, while the weather is cold outside and staying inside sounds good, are the smooth pipes of Tom Jones and Joan Baez each performing a rendition of "The Green Green Grass of Home."</strong> </span></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-67854445441183751852010-01-05T07:49:00.000-08:002010-01-05T07:55:46.737-08:00<span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;">Wow! It is times like these that make me feel proud to be a graduate of Boise State University. Last night, the Broncos were able to capitalized on an early game turnover. The momentum was established and the Broncos were savvy enough to maintain the advantage till the last seconds of the game were another turnover sealed the 2010 Fiesta bowl. Good job Broncos and coach Peterson! Proud to be a Bronco!</span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;font-size:130%;"></span><br /><span style="font-family:Arial;font-size:130%;"></span>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-81938033808387675722009-11-12T21:17:00.000-08:002009-11-12T21:32:15.962-08:00BEEN BUSY WITH ANOTHER PROJECT, BUT TIME TO GET BACK TO THE SEED BIZ<div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;color:#009900;">First I want to apologize to the readers for my lack of attentiveness to <em><u>The Best Grass Seed</u></em> Blog. Many readers have posted great comments regarding the content and <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">writing</span>. When I started this blog last year, it was an experiment. Well, I can say that I have developed a following and I must continue to inform and educate my readers. Secondly, I want to say <strong>thank you</strong> for following my blog and checking out <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">BestGrassSeed</span>.com. I haven't <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">eked</span> out a living with the site yet, but with fortitude and persistence I just possibly might. Keep in touch and let me know what you are thinking and what areas you are interested in. I'll do my best to bring you informative and educational stories about <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">turfgrass</span> and pasture grass. I <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">look forward</span> to hearing from you, the reader, some more. Good grazing!</span></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-6785455694575762812009-03-10T21:11:00.000-07:002009-03-10T21:26:49.102-07:00Seeding Small-Acreage Horse Pastures<div style="text-align: justify;">Productive, well-managed pasture can provide most of the nutritional requirements for horses during the growing season. But horse owners with small acreages generally do not manage their pasture to maintain desirable grass and legume species and maximize forage output. Most small acreage horse pastures are severely over-grazed and under fertilized, leading to loss of the desirable forage species and the pasture being largely bare soil and for weeds.<br />Before you begin a pasture seeding or reseeding program, there is some very basic information that you need. Good pasture management practices are based upon knowledge of the soil resource available, how plants grow and where growing points are located in different plant species, the soil and climatic requirements of various pasture grasses and legumes, and how plants respond to grazing. Obtaining thick, vigorous new stands is dependent upon proper seeding practices and favorable seedbed and environmental conditions. Proper soil pH, fertility, seedbed preparation, selecting high quality seed of appropriate species and varieties of grasses and legumes, seeding at the right time, good seeding techniques with equipment precisely adjusted for seeding rate and depth, and adequate control of weeds and insects are among the key factors to obtain thick, vigorous stands. Planning for New Seedings Preparations for seeding need to begin as much as 2 years prior to the actual planting of seed, especially for no-till seedings where lime and fertilizer can not be incorporated and mixed into the soil. Most old pastures and existing grasslands needing reseeding will require lime, fertilizer and weed control. These materials should be applied 6 to 24 months prior to seeding.<br /><br />Do not attempt to reseed the entire pasture acreage at one time. Horses will need to be removed from seeded areas until the plants become adequately established to withstand grazing. Seedings made in late summer will usually be ready for grazing the following May. Seeding made in late winter/early spring will usually be ready for grazing 3 to 4 months later.<br />Control Existing Perennial Broadleaf Weeds Perennial broadleaf weeds are usually present in older horse pastures, especially those that have been poorly managed, and may be present on cropland to be seeded to hay or pasture. Successful forage establishment of mixed grass and legume stands is dependent upon eliminationof these weeds prior to Seeding Small-Acreage Horse Pastures the time of seeding, either through tillage, herbicide application, or both. For best results, the weed control program should begin 6 months to a year before seeding.<br />The type of herbicide to be used will depend upon the composition of the existing vegetation and the kind of seeding (tillage vs. no-tillage). Early fall (2 to 4 weeks prior to the average killing frost date) is the most effective time period for application of herbicides to deep-rooted, hard-to-kill perennials such as dandelions, curly dock, milkweed, dogbane and Canada thistle.<br />Many herbicides must be applied by licensed pesticide applicators. Most commercial application<br />equipment is designed for large fields and not suitable for use on small acreages. Commercial<br />applicators also give priority to larger farm operations, so begin making contacts and arrangements for your needs at least 2 to 3 months prior to the target application time.<br />Liming and Fertilization For tilled seedbed seedings, soil samples should be taken to the depth of the plow layer (the depth to which the soil is plowed, commonly defined as 6 2/3 inches). For no-till seedings, two sets of samples should be taken – one from the 0 to 2-inch depth to determine surface pH and fertility and the other to the normal plow depth. Lime should ideally be applied 6 to 12 months prior to seeding and thoroughly incorporated into the plow layer to neutralize social acidity. With no-till seedings, surface applications should be made 1 to 2 years ahead of seeding to allow for movement into the soil profile. Phosphorus (P) level is especially critical during establishment. It is also commonly a limiting factor on unproductive, poorly managed pastures. A readily available supply of P within reach of the roots of young seedlings is essential for normal root development and seedling establishment. The demand for potassium (K) by young seedlings is relatively low. It is much more important once stands are established and high levels are essential for maintaining productive, long-lived stands.<br /><br />Matching Plants to Soil and Site Characteristics<br />Many factors need to be considered when selecting suitable grass and legume species. Not every horse pasture is suitable for orchardgrass and bluegrass. Each species has its own particular characteristics, making it more or less suitable for a particular site and purpose. Many pasture plantings fail or perform poorly simply because the species chosen for planting is not adapted to the site or the area. The first and foremost factors to be taken into account when selecting species is the necessity of matching grasses and legumes to the characteristics of the soil on which they are to be grown and the type of grazing management to be applied. Soil type, drainage, moisture holding capacity, fertility, pH and winter hardiness all have an affect on plant species adaptation. But horse owners, farm supply personnel, farm advisors and consultants often select or recommend species based on personal or industry preferences and biases without considering soil and site characteristics. Only species such as tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass and white clover will withstand the close grazing practices used on most small acreage horse farms and often times they can not even withstand the ever-grazing abuse. A thorough and complete inventory of all available resources that will be utilized in the pasture and grazing program needs to be performed. Among the questions to be addressed in the process of selecting adapted grass and legume species are:What are the soil limitations of each field in the grazing system?<br />1) Shallow soils are droughty and they will stress plants during hot, dry weather.<br />2) Is drainage a limiting factor any place on the farm? Species differ in their ability to<br />persist on poorly drained soils.<br />3) Are fertility and pH limiting factors? It is important to know not only what the fertility<br />and pH limitations are, but also to know where they are (which fields). Soil pH and<br />fertility are correctable limitations but keep in mind that it may take 2 to 3 years or<br />more for surface applications of lime and fertilizer to effectively change levels in the<br />root zone.<br />4) Does topography restrict performing management practices? Steep slopes limit access<br />and operation of equipment for liming, fertilizing, clipping, etc., a criterion to consider<br />with species requiring high pH and fertility.<br />5) What will be the frequency of grazing and length of the rest periods?<br />6) Is the primary intended purpose of the pasture to supply feed or to be an exercise lot?<br /><br />Prepackaged ‘shotgun’ mixtures of numerous grasses and legumes usually have no advantage over simpler mixtures of one or two grasses and one or two legumes carefully selected to match specific species to soil and site characteristics and grazing system goals.<br />Certified seed of known varieties should be used. Certified seed carries a label certifying that it is seed of the particular variety listed on the label and that the seed meets minimum standards of quality in purity and germination and has low weed seed content (usually less than 0.25%).<br />Seeding New Stands Tilled Seedbed Seedings. Tilled seedbed seedings are sometimes referred to as conventional tillage practices (plowing, discing, harrowing, etc.) are used to prepare the seedbed. The purposes of tillage are to loosen the soil, eliminate existing vegetation, turn under surface weed seeds, incorporate lime and fertilizer into the soil, and provide a smooth surface.<br />No-till Seedings. No-till seeding reduces soil erosion and conserves soil moisture for germination and seedling growth. No-till technology allows seeding without plowing or disking. Herbicides such as paraquat and glyphosate enable suppression of existing vegetation without tillage. For late summer seedings, it is important that all existing vegetation be eliminated 4-6 weeks prior to seeding. The use of paraquat or glyphosate and the application rate is determined by the type of vegetation present. The applicator hired to do the spraying should be able to help you determine the rate necessary or contact your local county Extension office (Maryland Cooperative Extension listed under county government offices). This application will be followed by an application of paraquat at the time of seeding for control of weeds that germinated after the first application 4 to 6 weeks earlier. When To Seed The primary seeding times for cool-season species are late winter/spring (late February to mid-May, depending upon location) and late summer (August to mid-September). Late winter/spring seedings are not common. Soil moisture and rainfall are generally good, evaporation is less and soil moisture is retained longer during the establishment period than with late summer seedings. However, seeding too early in cold, wet soils can result in poor germination, seedling loss due to fungal diseases and weak<br />stands. On the other hand late spring seedings often fail due to stress from high temperature and lack of moisture. Also, annual weeds are more of a problem with late spring seedings. Advantages of late summer seedings include less competition from weeds and damping-off (fungal)diseases are not usually a problem. Late summer seedings need sufficient time and heat unit accumulation for adequate growth before killing frost. These seedings should be made early enough to allow at least 6 weeks for growth after germination and emergence (Note: 6 weeks after emergence – not 6 weeks after seeding). Seedlings should be at least 3 to 4 inches tall before killing frost. Seedings made after out-of-dates (September 1 for mountainous region of western Maryland, September 10 for the rest of the state) are more subject to winter injury and possible winter killings since the plants do not have as much time to develop and become established. Seeding Depth Seeding depth varies with soil type (sandy, clay or loam), soil moisture availability, and time of seeding and firmness of the seedbed. Seeds placed too deep are not likely to emerge. Seeds placed on the surface or at a very shallow depth or in loose or cloddy seedbed often do not have adequate seed soil contact. In these cases, dry soil conditions following seeding usually results in desiccation and death of the seedlings. Thus in a firm seedbed is essential for proper seed placement, good seed-soil contact and successful establishment. Seed should be covered with enough soil to provide moist conditions for germination. Under humid<br />conditions, best results are obtained when placement is between ¼ and ½ inch deep. Under more arid conditions, such as sandy soils or to reach moist soil, the seed must be sown deeper. However, seed placed deeper than 1 inch may not emerge or be so weakened that survival is reduced. Generally, the optimum seeding depths are ¼ to ½ inch on clay and loam soils and ½ to 1 inch on sandy soils. Shallower depths within these ranges are better for species with smaller seed sizes and for early spring seedings. Deeper depths are recommended for species with larger seed sizes and for late spring and summer seedings when moisture conditions are less favorable.<br />Seeding Rates Pasture seeding rates are higher than hay seeding rates to provide a denser sod for grazing. This is especially true for horse pastures. Table 1 lists seeding rate recommendations for various choices and mixtures based on soil type. Management during Establishment New seedings should not be grazed until the plants have developed sufficient root systems to prevent<br />uprooting when grazed. One approach is to allow the new plants to grow to 10-12 inches, mow to a height of 3-4 inches, allow to regrow to 10-12 inches again and mow to 3-4 inches a second time. After the second mowing, let the plants again grow to 10-12 inches. By this time the plants should be ready for grazing so allow the horses to graze them down to 3-4 inches. Most forage grasses and legumes regrow from crown buds and are usually not seriously damaged by cutting. However, clipping too frequently can reduce seedling development as well as forage yields the following year. So don’t overdo it. To test for adequate root development, grasp a handful of plant material and tug on it. If you can easily pull it out of the ground, the root system is not sufficiently developed to prevent uprooting by the horses as they graze. If this is the case, another mowing and regrowth cycle is needed. Be sure not to graze the plants lower than 3-4 inches and graze only when the soil surface is dry and firm. Never graze new stands during wet periods, especially on tilled seedbeds. If it is feasible to harvest the spring growth as hay, this is another option for allowing plants to develop a sufficient root system before grazing. The spring growth is allowed to grow to the late boot/early heading stage and then harvested as hay. Once the regrowth following hay harvest is 10-12 inches tall, grazing can begin. Weeds often invade new seedings and the stand may be reduced if they are not controlled. Clipping, in addition to being a good management practice for developing root systems during establishment, will also reduce competition of weeds with the new grass and legume seedlings. But it should not be done<br />too early. If clipped too early, only the tops of the weeds will be removed, leaving active buds on the stubble to produce new branches and even more competition. Sufficient weed growth should be allowed so that most active buds are removed when the new seeding is clipped. Even though the seedlings from late summer seedings may make considerable growth during the late summer and fall period, they should not be cut or grazed. Clipping or grazing seedling stands weakens the plants and results in greater susceptibility to winter killing. Grazing or clipping of new spring seedings should end 4 to 6 weeks prior to the average killing frost date to allow for buildup of reserves for winter. Avoid grazing of new stands during wet periods, especially on tilled seedbeds. New seedings should be monitored for slugs, insect and disease problems at least weekly for the first 6 to 8 weeks. Pasture producers often fail to monitor new seedings and it is difficult, if not impossible, to determine the cause of seeding failures when you don’t know what happened during that 6- to 8- week period following seeding.<br /><br />Summary There are no shortcuts or substitutes for good management practices and procedures for establishing pastures. Poor management before and after seeding can result in wasted effort. But once this pasture improvement has been made, there is often a tendency for horse owners to slip back into old practices of overgrazing, inadequate fertilization, and soon the new seedings are back to weeds and low productivity. After seeding it is necessary to follow up with good forage management to realize continuing benefits from a new seedings.<br /><br />Prepared by: Lester R. Vough, University of Maryland Forage Crops Extension Specialist Emeritus/NRCS Forage Systems Management Consultant.<br /></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-21301589802945597942009-02-23T19:17:00.000-08:002009-02-23T19:39:46.197-08:00Pasture Grass: The Healthy Choice<table style="text-align: left; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1"><tbody><tr><td> <br /></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <span id="AuthorLabel" class="byline">by: Ray Geor, BVSc, PhD, Dipl. ACVIM</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <span id="OnlineDateLabel" class="datePosted">March 01 2003</span> <span id="ArticleIDLabel">Article # 4188</span><br /> </td> </tr> </tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify;">Few nutritionists will dispute that grass is the most natural feedstuff for horses. The horse's digestive tract is well designed for continuous or "trickle" delivery of pasture forage. As well, it seems intuitive that the opportunity for socialization and exercise provided when horses have access to pasture is important for their health and well-being. If given free access to pasture (all day), horses will spend 60-70% of their time grazing, with considerable walking activity, especially in large fields. Unfortunately, for many horses free access to pasture is but a dream; only a restricted period of grazing, if any, is available to a large proportion of the domesticated horse population. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">From a nutritional standpoint, common questions regarding pasture grass and grazing activity include: "What is the benefit of pasture for my horse?" "Can my horse get all the required nutrition from grass alone?" And, related to the previous question, "If my horse is at pasture all day long, do I need to feed him some kind of supplement?" </p><p style="text-align: justify;">The answer to all of these questions is...it depends! Several factors have to be taken into consideration, including the age and use of the horse, season, species of pasture grass, pasture management practices, and the time available to the horse for grazing activity. You need some understanding of these factors to best utilize pasture as a part of your horse's nutritional program. </p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b>Grazing Behavior</b> </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Horses like to graze and, in general, spend time in wide-open spaces. However, to estimate the potential for pasture forages to meet nutritional needs, we need knowledge of the horse's typical grazing behavior. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, there is limited information on the intake of pasture forages by horses. However, from the available data it is clear that extended grazing periods are needed for pasture to meet (or nearly meet) a horse's nutritional requirements. This makes sense when you consider the horse's overall energy needs and the fact that pasture grasses can be 50-80% water. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">As mentioned, on average horses graze approximately 70% of the time spent at pasture. So, if a horse has 24-hour access to pasture, he'll spend up to 17 hours engaged in grazing activity. However, a number of factors will influence grazing time--the time devoted to grazing decreases with severe weather (cold or hot), increased pasture forage availability (e.g., lush ryegrass), being alone, and when bothered by flies. In general, grazing time is inversely proportional to the quality and amount of pasture forage, i.e., a horse will spend less time grazing a lush, spring pasture when compared to a dry, mid-to-late summer pasture with lower forage availability. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Interestingly, when horses are kept in stalls and fed hay free choice, they spend a similar amount of time eating. Of course, it is more typical for stalled horses to be fed twice during a 24-hour period--under these circumstances, consumption time represents only about 15% of a 24-hour period. And we sometimes wonder why stalled horses often develop undesirable vices such as wood chewing! </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Horses spend about 10% of their time walking when at pasture. However, more time will be spent walking on poorer quality pasture as the horse searches for palatable forage. Similarly, they will walk more if alone, presumably because they are in search of companionship. Only about one to two hours is spent lying down, mostly in the period three to four hours before dawn. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Horses are classified as selective grazers; they do not simply eat forage available in greatest abundance, but seem to base their selection on palatability. So, in a pasture containing several grass species, a patchy grazing pattern can develop as the preferred forages are depleted first. This leads to very inefficient utilization of pasture forage, a situation that can be minimized by proper pasture management, including the practice of rotational grazing. </p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b>Benefits of Pasture</b> </p><p style="text-align: justify;">The opportunity to graze for extended periods has two very important benefits for the horse. First, forage (or fiber of some type) is a basic necessity for normal functioning of the equine gastrointestinal tract, and a well-managed pasture will be an economical source of high-quality feed. Indeed, as will be discussed shortly, under some circumstances pasture can meet most of your horse's nutritional needs. Second, pasture is a great place for horses to exercise, and this exercise also can be important in maintaining healthy gastrointestinal function. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">The amount of voluntary exercise will be proportional to the time at pasture. In one study of Thoroughbred yearlings, Japanese researchers investigated the effects of grazing time on feed intake and energy expenditure, as indicated by the distance covered while at pasture<sup>1</sup>. One group of horses was allowed to graze for 17 hours per day, while the other was restricted to seven hours grazing in a 10-acre (four-hectare) pasture. The horses at pasture for 17 hours per day traveled between eight and 9.5 miles (13-15 km), whereas horses restricted to seven hours grazing per day covered 2.5 to three miles (four to five kilometers). </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Most of this distance will be covered at the walk. Even so, energy expenditure per day (calories burned) will be considerably higher for a horse given access to pasture when compared to a horse kept in a stall for much of the day. This voluntary exercise also has a conditioning effect. In a recent study, there was a 20-25% increase in the aerobic capacity (VO<sub>2</sub>max) of young Thoroughbreds which were otherwise untrained but turned out to pasture for between seven and 20 hours per day. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Now to the important question: How much nutrition can be derived from pasture? First, a few nutritional basics. Mature horses generally consume 2-2.5% of their body weight in feed each day (on a dry matter, DM, basis). For example, a 1,000-pound (454-kg) horse fed hay plus grain concentrate (feeds that are about 90% DM) should consume about 20-25 pounds (9.1-11.3 kg) of feed daily. For gastrointestinal health, horses need to eat about 1% of their body weight in hay or pasture grasses and legumes daily (10 pounds, or 4.5 kg, of DM intake for a 1,000-pound, or 454-kg, horse). </p><p style="text-align: justify;">So, how much grass can be eaten per hour of grazing activity? This will vary with pasture forage quantity, quality, and palatability, and also with the amount of time horses are on pasture. However, about 1-1.4 pounds (0.5-0.6 kg) per hour (DM basis) is a reasonable range assuming quantity is not a limiting factor. This means that a horse with 24-hour access to good-quality pasture grazing 17 hours each day can consume up to 25 pounds (11.3 kg) as forage, which is plenty to satisfy his daily DM needs. A minimum of eight to 10 hours at pasture would be needed to achieve a DM intake of at least 1% of body weight. Anything less than this duration of grazing and the horse will need supplemental forage (such as hay) to satisfy his forage needs. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Pasture can be an excellent source of digestible nutrients for the horse, high in both digestible energy and crude protein. "Pasture Grass Nutrient Content" on page 74 shows the nutrient composition of some pasture grasses at two stages of growth--vegetative (spring growth) and mature (mid-to-late summer). This table also relates the nutrients available in these grasses to some of the nutritional needs of different classes of horses. While the data in this table are representative of the nutrient content of these pasture species, many factors (including soil type, annual rainfall patterns, and fertilization) will influence the nutrient values of a given pasture. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">In general, forage nutrient content is highest during the spring and fall when there is "flush" growth from increasing ambient temperature (spring) or rainfall (fall). Mature or dormant grass has much lower energy and protein content and overall digestibility when compared to a lush, growing spring pasture. The concentration of some minerals also decreases with plant maturity. Given this seasonal (and, potentially, year-to-year) change in pasture quality, some large breeding farms will regularly analyze the nutrient content of pasture to fine-tune feeding programs. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">For the same reason, it is unrealistic for me to make precise recommendations for balancing rations in all situations where pasture is an important component of the diet. Extension specialists and nutritionists in your area are best able to make these recommendations. For the most part, though, it is fair to assume that a dormant winter pasture or dry summer pasture is more useful for exercise and socialization than for delivery of nutrition. However, when growing conditions are good and pasture supply is plentiful (such as in spring and fall), pasture can replace hay and reduce the quantity of concentrates required. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">For mature, idle (pasture ornaments), or laid-up horses, or mares in early pregnancy, spring or fall pasture can deliver the most required nutrients providing the horse has adequate time for grazing and there is plenty of land per horse. Only a mineral supplement (supplying calcium and phosphorus) might be necessary in these situations. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">For working (athletic) and growing horses and for late pregnant (last trimester) and lactating mares, even the best-quality spring or early summer pasture grazed all day long might not get the job done in terms of exercise performance or growth and development. In most situations, these horses will need some type of concentrate or supplement to meet their nutritional needs, and these needs will be greater when pasture is mature or dormant. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">The issue of land space is important. All bets are off at high stocking densities because, regardless of the time available for grazing, pasture supply will be inadequate to meet the horse's needs. Horses with a mature weight of 1,000 to 1,200 pounds need the following amounts of pasture at a minimum: Mare and foal, 1.75 to two acres (0.7-0.8 hectares); yearlings and mature horses, 1.5 to two acres (0.6-0.8 hectares); and weanlings, 0.5 to one acre (0.2-0.4 hectares). If acreage is limited (e.g., less than an acre per horse), exercise will be the main pasture use as only a minimal amount of feed will be supplied. </p>It also warrants mention that free access to pasture is problematic in overweight horses and ponies, at least those on good-quality pasture. The exercise associated with turnout is important in the weight management of these animals, but this should be done in a dry lot. <p style="text-align: justify;">Pasture can be an excellent source of feed, exercise, and socialization for most horses if managed properly. Work with your local extension agent to develop the best horse and pasture management plan for your farm. </p><p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><table style="text-align: left; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; width: 58px; height: 237px;" bgcolor="#ffffcc" border="1" bordercolor="#000033" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr bgcolor="#000033"> <td colspan="7"><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><hr style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" color="red"><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify;"><b>REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING</b> </p><p style="text-align: justify;">1. Asai. Y.; Matsui, A.; Kawai, M.; et al. Digestible energy expenditure in grazing activity of growing horses. <i>Equine Veterinary Journal,</i> Supplement 30, 490-492, 1999. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Crowell-Davis, S.L.; Houpt, K.A.; Carnevale, J. Feeding and drinking behavior of mares and foals with free access to pasture and water. <i>Journal of Animal Science,</i> 60, 883-889, 1985. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Gallagher, J.R. The potential of pasture to supply the nutritional requirements of grazing horses. <i>Australian Veterinary Journal,</i> 73, 67-78, 1988. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Hoffman, R.M.; Wilson, J.A.; Kronfeld, D.S.; et al. Hydrolyzable carbohydrates in pasture, hay, and horse feeds: direct assay and seasonal variation. <i>Journal of Animal Science</i> 79: 500-506. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Ohmura, H.; Hiraga, A.; Matsui, A.; et al. Physiological responses of young Thoroughbreds during their first year of race training. <i>Equine Veterinary Journal</i> Supplement 34: 140-146, 2002. </p><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><table style="text-align: left; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" class="footerBox" width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td> <img src="http://www.thehorse.com/images/AAEP-Media-Partner-sm.gif" id="Img1" alt="AAEP Media Partner" width="50" height="80" /></td> <td align="center"> <p> <strong>Readers are cautioned to seek the advice of a qualified veterinarian <br /> before proceeding with any diagnosis, treatment, or therapy</strong></p></td></tr></tbody></table>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-88602644517185119902009-02-04T17:39:00.000-08:002009-02-04T17:42:03.990-08:00"economic down turn"<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The "economic down turn" presents unusual opportunities I have one and have chosen to take it on. I have decided to go out on my own...tough decision to break away from the comfort zone! </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">As you know the construction industry has 'tanked' and of which I have worked in for over twenty years and never experienced a lay-off with lasting effects until now. I could always find another position with in those days, but not so now. In the Western States construction has slowed tremendously. Prior to the slow down I had a contact with a region turfgrass seed supplier. This supplier has been providing and developing new seed mixes since 1983 and has grown a successful company. I have been authorized to independently market 'Eden® turfgrass seed mix, as an independent rep, and utilizing internet marketing. The product I represent is Eden® Turfgrass Seed. The Seed mix is an high quality fescuse and bluegrass, which brings together the unique characteristics of both types. The mix has the deep rooted element of fescue and the spreading roots of bluegrass. The deep roots provide resistances to drought and a firm hold for durability. The blue grass provides self mending, disease resistance with that beautiful dark green color. Eden® also has slower growth meaning less mowing and less impact on the environment and as well as less impact on water resource during times of drought. There are many seed types and mixes on the market, but I stand behind my product as well as the experience and longevity of the company. I hope, I was able to give you some insight about me, my need to build a network and the remarkable characteristic of my product. Once again thank you for your time and consideration. Visit <a href="http://bestgrassseed.com">bestgrassseed.com</a> and pass along your thoughts or to a network member you know that would have interest in Eden®</span>.</span></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-44378737583322688442009-01-02T16:19:00.000-08:002009-01-02T16:47:01.066-08:00JANUARY OR WHAT TO DO DURING WINTER MONTHS<div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;">During the winter months, the yard is the last thing on your mind and it show be. By now most the country is blanketed in the white fluffy stuff. With snow covering lawns and gardens there is not much to do. Where I live, in the western mountain states, the snow has a tendency to come and go. Two weeks before Christmas the snow began to fall and continued up until the weekend after Christmas. One day, the day time temperature was up to 58 degrees! For the last week the snow has close to melted off. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;"><br />When I see the lawn, in its dormant state and in a deep sleep, I get the urge to do what most parents do to their baby--tuck them in! What I am referring to is cleaning up the debris (i.e. leaves and etc). This is a great time to remove debris and give the crown on these sleeping babies a brushing. </span></div><span style="font-size:130%;"><br /><div align="justify"><br />Thatching or raking can help aid in the removal of unwanted debris. Act now because before you know it the lawn WILL be covered in white fluffy stuff again, which is a great nurturing action mother nature provides. The Snow melts seeping, penetrating deep in to the soil. </div><br /><div align="justify"><br />Enjoy the winter months and the time away from lawn maintenance, but for a great looking yard year round attention proves rewarding.</span></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-13997090933757217672008-12-14T16:06:00.000-08:002008-12-14T16:22:49.941-08:00An Old Pro Trick To Speed Up Germination:<div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"><strong>This time of year, planting is STILL and option. The key is to speed up germination and provide a nice blanket of mulch to keep those little seedlings warm and they'll do just as well as being planted in the spring or fall. Bellow in one recommended way to pre-germinate seed.</strong></span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"></span></strong> </div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"></span></strong> </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"><strong>"Three days before you are going to sow the seed, place it in a old pillow case and submerge it in a clean garbage can filled with like warm water with 1/2 cup of epsom salts added. Let it set for twenty-four hours. Remove the seed pour off the old water, refill the container with luke warm water and return the seed to soak another 24 hours (no epsom salts this time). Have the area to be sown ready. Spread the seed out (patio, porch; etc). Keep moving it around until it is dry enough to pour into a spread. Pergermination will speed up sprouting by about 300 to 400 percent, as well as decrease the mortality rate of the seed." Jerry Baker's Lawn Book.</strong></span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"></span></strong> </div><div align="justify"> </div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;color:#009900;"><strong>If you got the time now, don't put off till spring what you can do today!</strong></span></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4963252292521495149.post-4983382390192622922008-12-11T10:55:00.000-08:002008-12-14T16:22:49.942-08:00A Remarkable New Seed Mix<div align="justify"><span style="font-size:130%;">Eden Grass Seed provides good seedling vigor and establishment to form a strong rooted, low growth turf.Seeding at the rate of 8 to 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet is recommended for Eden. A higher seeding rate may be useful for quicker establishment. As far as pre-plant soil incorporation, a complete fertilizer is very helpful and seedlings should emerge in 7 to 14 days. Eden may be planted any time of the year, although a winter and late summer seeding may germinate more slowly. Since the Eden mix is designed for most environments, it's easy to maintain. It normally requires just 3 to 5 fertilizations per year to keep it green and healthy. Water requirements are low to because of Eden's excellent drought tolerance that's enhanced by a deep root system. You don't have to mow it as often because Eden has a lower, slower growth habit that is much less than the taller growing tall fescues. Eden is tough, good-looking, self repairing and offers a wide range of adaptability and pH tolerances (4.7 - 8.5), so it will work well in most Western United States regions and the same climate zone world wide. Discover the unparalleled freedom, beauty and arability of Eden Grass Seed mix. There's nothing more appealing than a remarkably smart lawn with its own build-in repair kit.</span></div>RH Frazierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06017653595213726386noreply@blogger.com0